A Hike in Dolomites
Tomek:
The Dolomites are probably the most beautiful mountain range in the world - period. Add to this the Italian smiles (sorry, Austria, you can’t beat that!) and their unparalleled hospitality (where else do you see staff wiping snow off every ski lift seat?) and you have the perfect winter holiday destination.
Did I say winter? Summer vacations here are just as great. The mountaintops are easily accessible via lifts; the trails are family-friendly with fascinating didactic paths; and even the hard-to-reach spots, like Civetta Peak or the Eterna via ferrata, become achievable for amateurs.
Oh, one more suggestion: stay somewhere around Civetta when you visit. While it’s not usually the first choice, I think of it as the “lens” of the Dolomites. You don’t need to visit Madonna di Campiglio to experience the magic of these mountains. Besides, the best endorsement is the fact that Italians themselves highly value these whereabouts and make up the majority of tourists there!
Naturally, Tomek was in charge of planning the hike route.
We aimed for the Cinque Torri massif, starting from the tip of Passo Giau and heading to Rifugio Averau. It’s a simple, easy hike - perfect for the afternoon we had.
I also wanted to show the guys the area traversed by the Grande Guerra (World War I) ski tour, a must-do if you happen to ski in the area. This route passes through sites connected to the conflict between Italy and Austria-Hungary from 1914-1918. Beyond its historical significance, the biggest draw of this journey is the stunning panoramas of Civetta, Arabba, and Cinque Torri. It covers 80 km of trails, and on one flat stretch, you’re even pulled by horses!
At our destination, we enjoyed a quick lunch - nothing fancy, just simple sandwiches we’d prepared earlier in Sottoguda with fresh bread, local cheese, and ham. But the taste, enhanced by the setting… was unforgettable. Maybe these sandwiches will make it onto Tomek’s list of favorite Dolomites memories?
Tomek’s Dolomites highlights:
- Calimero: espresso with bombardino and whipped cream. It’s the kind of thing I’d take to a desert island or send as a welcome gift to visiting aliens!
- Burgers made by Beppe - the owner of the best burger joint I've eaten in there, at the Pecol peak (1764 meters above sea level) - who learned the Polish names of ingredients while preparing the burger for us: “cebula” (onion), “bakłażan” (eggplant), “ser” (cheese), “jajo sadzone” (fried egg). Only “Tabasco” stayed international… until Beppe renamed it “Viagra”. ;)
- Many via ferratas, which as soon as things calm down, I will be doing regularly.
- And, perhaps unexpectedly... GKS Katowice. A year ago, we followed them here and spent an incredible five days in Cortina d’Ampezzo as they played (and won!) the Continental Cup in ice hockey.
However, there was one more thing we had to remember, since we would be passing Graz in Austria on our way back to Katowice…
Graz is symbolic for two reasons. First, it marks the halfway point of the journey, so passing it means I’m closer to the destination. Second, the highway there takes you through the hills, often shrouded in fog, with hidden speed cameras ready to send you unpleasant “postcards” from your vacation!
Thankfully, we drove home safe - no unwanted postcards this time, nothing to spoil our impressions. All for the best.
Now, it will be difficult to find another place to visit that feels as profoundly beautiful, not only because of the breathtaking scenery, but also because of the countless personal memories born here - memories that Poszetka is now a part of, too.
All the previous articles covering our trip to Dolomites can be found here: